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African American Hair Types (4a, 4b & 4c): Everything You Need To Know

African American Hair Types (4a, 4b & 4c): Everything You Need To Know

07/11/2023 08:56

hair types

African-American hair is beautiful and unique. It comes in many types, each with its own special look and feel. Some people's hair are curly and springy, while others are more coiled and dense. But, did you know that you can care for your hair better when you identify your hair type?

This article is all about African-American hair types. You'll learn about the different kinds, from looser curls to tight coils, also known as 4a, 4b, and 4c hair types. We'll also explain how to tell which type you have. This knowledge can help you care for your hair in the best way possible.

Understanding African-American Hair

Most African-Americans have what's known as 'type 4' hair. This type is tightly curled or coiled, often called 'kinky' or 'afro-textured' hair. It's unique and very different from other hair types.

What makes African-American hair different? One key feature is its shape. It's more flat and ribbon-like, compared to the round strands in other hair types. This gives African hair its distinct texture and curl pattern. The texture varies, from soft curls (type 4a) to tight, zigzag coils (type 4c).

African hair is also different because of its structure. It's more fragile and prone to dryness. It has fewer cuticle layers, which protect the hair. That's why it needs extra care.

Over time, African-American hair texture can change. Factors like age, hormones, and health can influence this. It's normal and part of the body's natural changes.

Ever wondered why African-American hair is curly? It's because of the follicle shape. The hair grows from an oval-shaped follicle, causing it to curl as it grows. So, curliness is a natural feature of African-American hair.

What are Curl Types (4a, 4b & 4c)?

Curl types are labels that guide us in understanding the shape, texture, and pattern of our hair. Much like knowing your shoe size, understanding your curl type can make the journey to hair health and styling smoother and more tailored to your specific needs.

Why is it important to know what hair texture we have?

When you know your hair type, it's easier to find products and styles that suit your hair. It's like knowing your favorite ice cream flavor. Once you know it, you can always find what you love and what works best.

How to Take Care of 4a Hair

Type 4a hair is well-defined, with tight curls that form an "S" pattern. The curls might remind you of small, tightly coiled springs that are eager to bounce.

The journey of caring for Type 4a hair is about fighting dryness and maintaining hydration. The tight coils can make it challenging for natural scalp oils to reach the hair ends.

Key weapons for this battle are moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, and a regular routine with a leave-in conditioner. Also, to seal in the moisture, an oil like jojoba or coconut oil works wonders.

Take a look at these detailed 4a hair care tips.

Tip #1: Shampoo twice a week.

There's no universal rule for how often 4a hair type should be washed, but usually, once or twice a week is typically enough. The number of times we shampoo our hair depends on our lifestyle, environments, and personal preference.

But remember that curly hair needs extra moisture. Too much shampoo can take away the natural oils that 4a curls need.

A hydrating, sulfate-free shampoo works best. And when you're in the shower, focus on washing just the roots and scalp. Let the extra foam run down the entire strand on its own. This way, you minimize hair tangles and keep the moisture.

Tip #2: Regular conditioning and deep conditioning.

To help keep those coils moisturized during washes, remember to condition both before and after shampooing. Hair stylists recommend using a deeply moisturizing conditioner. You can also cover your hair in coconut oil for about 30 minutes before washing.

And to keep your hair hydrated, remember to give your hair a deep conditioning treatment once a week.

Tip #3: Spritz your curls regularly.

Hair care doesn't end in the shower stall.

Spritz your curls with conditioner to keep it from going frizzy. Use a moisturizing leave-in conditioner or a bottle of water mixed with hair oil.

Tip #4: Stay away from the heat.

4a hair types are delicate and they break easily. Stay away from heated hair tools like straightening irons or curling irons. Use curl-defining 4a hair products to help style your hair.

But if you really need to use heat to style your hair, make sure to coat your curls in a heat-protecting serum before styling.

Tip #5: Detangle gently.

Tangles are sometimes unavoidable no matter what we do. To lessen the damage and breakage, use a wide-tooth comb, or just your fingers with curl cream or oil, to detangle your hair.

Tip #6: Choose the right cutting method for your hair.

Curls and coils dry out easily, so trimming off the brittle areas can help prevent split ends from traveling up the hair shaft.

Hair stylists' most recommended type of cut for 4a hair is a dry cut. Dry cuts help minimize unexpected length changes. It also lets the person see the shape and movement of the haircut in real time to make sure you're satisfied with the results.

4a Hair Styling Tips

Hair stylists tell us that 4a hair types can't hold protective styles for long periods of time. That's why they recommend low-manipulation hairstyles — otherwise known as hairstyles that put less stress on your hair and scalp.

  • Clipped hair part: It's chic and easy. Just pin your hair to one side and let the rest flow free.
  • Pigtails: No, it's not just for little girls! Tie your coils into two loose pigtails and use a soft, no-tangle hair tie to minimize breakage.
  • Bantu knots: Bantu knots are the upgrade to a classic half-up, half-down style. Stylists part the front of the hair into three sections. Twist each section around your finger to form a small bun or knot. Pin your hair in place and go!
  • Puff: The puff is just a high, curly ponytail. Gather your coils high on your crown, and tie it together with a soft hair tie or scrunchy.
  • All natural: Leave your hair down and loose. Use a little curl cream or spritz with a moisturizing leave-in conditioner and go about your day.

How to Take Care of 4b Hair

Type 4b hair is a curly path less traveled. Rather than forming the usual "S" pattern, these strands form a "Z" pattern. It’s like a unique puzzle piece with sharp angles and bends instead of the usual curves.

When caring for Type 4b hair, gentle care and hydration is the main objective. Due to the tightness of the coils, this hair type is often thirstier than its Type 4a counterpart. The care package for 4b hair includes leave-in masks, cleansing conditioners, and lightweight oils. Hydrating serums also help to lock in moisture, reduce tangles, and enhance the definition of your curls.

Here are some tips you might want to consider.

Tip #1: Shampoo once a week.

Because of the 4b hair type's natural coils, it's hard for the scalp's natural oils to travel down the hair shaft. Use a hydrating, sulfate-free formula to help your 4b curls maintain natural moisture.

Tip #2: Do some pre-shampoo treatment.

Before shampooing your hair, coat your hair in a thick, deeply moisturizing hair conditioner. You can also use hydrating oils, like coconut oil. Soak your hair in it for about 30 minutes, and then wash and condition like normal.

Tip #3: Deep condition your hair often.

The 4b hair type needs lots of moisture. If they feel a little dry, you can condition your hair some more with a deep conditioning treatment.

Tip #4: Spray your coils throughout the day.

Use a moisturizing leave-in conditioner throughout the day to keep your hair moisturized. Another option is to use a bottle of water mixed with hydrating hair oil.

Tip #5: Avoid styling your hair using heat.

4b hair types are fragile. Stay away from blow dryers and heat-styling tools. Use moisturizing curl-defining products instead.

Tip #6: Do some gentle detangling.

4b curls are easiest to detangle when they're wet. Work in small sections and use a curl cream or oil to manage your curls. Detangle your hair gently with your fingers or with a wide tooth comb.

Tip #7: Protect your curls at night.

Go to sleep with your hair gently wrapped in a scarf or a satin bonnet.

4b Hair Styling Tips

Go for protective hairstyles that show off your hair's natural texture without damaging it. Here are some 4b hairstyles that you can try.

  • Box braids: If you take care of them properly, you can wear box braids for a few weeks at a time. They need to be installed by a professional, and make sure your braids are not done too tightly.
  • Cornrows: This hairstyle is great for keeping hair out of the face. They're neat and stylish and save you more time in the morning. Remember to take care of your scalp even if your hair is braided.
  • Space buns: A brush, a hair pick, a firm hold pomade, and two hair elastics are all you need. Stylists use a hair pick to create volume all over the head. They usually work with one side at a time, and after they secure the poofs, they fluff it up to keep the style even on all sides.
  • Crown braid: These are also called halo braids. This hairstyle can be worn all week long, and stylists advise people to wrap the head with a silk scarf before bedtime if you want the style to last.

4c Hair Care Tips

Type 4c hair is like a complex maze. With a tightly-coiled pattern that sometimes appears almost invisible to the eye, this hair type is the most fragile among the Type 4 categories. Knots and snarls can form easily due to the coils' interweaving nature.:

Caring for Type 4c hair is a delicate task. It's important to use the right products as this type doesn't retain moisture or absorb products easily. Overloading with heavy creams may leave an unwanted film. Instead, moisturizing hair masks with lightweight ingredients like argan oil are a better choice. These products can help to reduce frizz, enhance shine, and keep your hair looking healthy and vibrant.

Let’s take a look into the details.

Tip #1: Don't shampoo all the time.

All the curly hair types are prone to dryness, but the 4c hair type is the one that needs the extra moisture. Don't overwash your hair because it will strip away the natural oils that keep your hair hydrated and healthy.

Use a gentle, hydrating sulfate-free formula and shampoo your hair once every 2-4 weeks.

Tip #2: Always condition your hair.

Minimize tangling by conditioning your hair before and after cleansing. And while you're in between washes, make sure to use a thick, deeply moisturizing conditioner that softens and detangles stubborn coils.

Don't forget to deep condition your hair with a hot oil treatment or a hair mask at least once a week.

Tip #3: Try the LCO method.

The 4c hair type has a hard time keeping moisture in. But you don't have to worry, because the right combination of products in the right order produces great results. The LCO method stands for:

  • L - Liquid Conditioner
  • C - Creme
  • O - Oil

Spritz the curls with moisturizing leave-in conditioner, use a deeply hydrating cream, and put on some oil to lock the moisture in.

Tip #4: Don't style your hair with heat.

Heat styling is not good for 4c hair. Instead of using heat-styling tools, only use curl-defining 4c hair care products. Try out frizz hair gels, styling spray, or curl reset spray.

Tip #5: Protect and detangle hair regularly.

4c is more prone to breakage, damage, and frizz than 4a and 4b hair types. Always coat your curls in conditioner or curl cream. Gently separate the curls with your fingers afterwards.

Tip #6: Sleep carefully.

Protect your hair at night by wrapping your head in a scarf or silk bonnet. To minimize friction that causes frizz, use a satin pillowcase too.

4c Hair Styling Tips

Type 4c hair can be styled in fun ways. Here are some styles that you can try.

  • Twist-out: This is one of the most popular style choices for 4c hair. It's a great protective style and it's also low maintenance. Separate your clean, damp hair into enough sections for the number of twists you want. The smaller the twist, the tighter the curl pattern after releasing them. Create basic two-strand twists and tie each of them with a small clear elastic. Let the twists dry completely and fluff them up.
  • Wet lacer set: 4c hair is popular for having a mix of waves, curls, coils, and zigzags. The combination of curls is super pretty to look at. But if you want to give your hairstyle a bit of uniformity, try out some lacers. Lacers are hair tools that let you wrap your hair around them to set a uniform curl pattern.
  • Mohawk or faux 'fro hawks: Who doesn't love a good mohawk? But if you don't want to say 'goodbye' to your long curls, a faux mohawk can do the trick. Work with one side at a time and brush your hair toward the center of your head. Use a couple of bobby pins to hold your hair in place. Just repeat the same steps to the other side of your head. After that's secured, use a pick to fluff up your hair.

The Most Popular Black Hair Care Products

Caring for African-American hair types requires understanding their unique needs and carefully selecting the right products. Africa Imports offers a wide range of popular all-natural hair care products tailored to meet these needs. They moisturize, nourish, protect, and encourage healthy hair growth.

Chebe & Karkar Hair Oil


Women in Chad, Africa have used Chebe & Karkar Hair Oil for centuries. This secret comes from Chad and it helps them grow very long hair. They live in an environment that's hot and harsh, yet their hair continues to thrive. This unique product, enriched with essential nutrients and anti-bacterial properties, is a popular choice for African American hair.

What it is: A combination of Chebe powder and Karkar oil.

What it does: It seals in moisture, prevents breakage, promotes hair growth, and protects the scalp from bacteria and irritants. This leads to longer and fuller hair growth.

Who it's for: People with 4c hair type, often dealing with dryness and breakage, find this especially helpful. But those with 4a and 4b hair types can also use it to better protect and grow their hair.

Price: $4.95

Pure Black Seed Oil

Pure Black Seed Oil is one of the best natural remedies for hair, as it has antifungal, anti inflammatory and antibacterial properties. These protect the hair and scalp while also locking in moisture in the hair shaft.

What it is: A 100% fresh, cold-pressed oil from the seeds of the Nigella sativa plant.

What it does: Helps to hydrate hair and soften the hair, whilst protecting your scalp.

Who it's for: Recommended for all hair types (4a, 4b, 4c) to improve hair hydration and scalp health. Particularly beneficial for those suffering from scalp conditions or dryness.

Price: $9.95

Black Jamaican Castor Hair Oil

Black Jamaican Castor Hair Oil is a powerhouse essential oil enriched with numerous benefits for hair. It not only adds luster and strength to your hair but also fights against common hair and scalp issues.

What it is: An oil made from the castor bean and specially processed for hair and scalp benefits.

What it does: It moisturizes, strengthens, and promotes hair growth. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that help with skin and scalp conditions.

Who it's for: Perfect for all hair types (4a, 4b, 4c), especially those prone to dryness or seeking to stimulate hair growth.

Price: $3.95

Chebe Hair Pomade

Chebe Hair Pomade is a hair product made with Chebe powder, a secret from Chad in Africa known to stimulate hair growth and prevent breakage. Unlike other hair moisturizers, Chebe Hair Pomade penetrates deep into the hair shaft providing long-lasting moisture.

What it is: A pomade made from Chebe powder, a traditional ingredient from Chad, Africa.

What it does: It moisturizes hair, prevents breakage, and makes hair more manageable. It penetrates the hair shaft to prevent breakage.

Who it's for: Best suited for 4c hair type, which is prone to dryness and breakage, but also suitable for 4a and 4b types for added moisture and strength.

Price: $6.95

Organic Indian Hemp & Jojoba Hair Pomade

The Organic Indian Hemp & Jojoba Hair Pomade is a fantastic solution for styling and shining your hair, packed with beneficial ingredients that also promote hair health.

What it is: A hair pomade made from Indian Hemp and Jojoba.

What it does: It styles your hair, adds shine, boosts hair growth, prevents damage, and moisturizes your hair.

Who it's for: Ideal for all hair types (4a, 4b, 4c)

Price: $4.95

Aside from these popular products, here’s a list of beneficial ingredients that African-American hair types might also need:

For all African-American hair types (4a, 4b, 4c):

  • Shea butter is full of vitamins and fatty acids. It deeply moisturizes and protects your hair from damage.
  • Coconut oil seeps into the hair shaft and hydrates your hair.
  • Olive oil has antioxidants and vitamins that help nourish the scalp and hair.
  • Avocado oil is full of vitamins and minerals. It softens and strengthens your hair.
  • Aloe vera is great for soothing the scalp. It also hydrates hair and improves hair growth

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  • Honey has specific properties that attract moisture. It also leaves hair soft and manageable.
  • Castor oil thickens hair, promotes growth, and adds shine.

For 4a hair, lightweight oils, like jojoba oil, argan oil, and grapeseed oils, moisturize the hair without weighing it down.

And for 4b and 4c hair types, stylists recommend using rich butters. Mango butter and cocoa butter are great for protecting and moisturizing the hair. Sealants like coconut oil and beeswax also help lock in moisture.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I determine my hair type?

Figuring out your hair type is key to a proper hair care routine and the right products. Here are some steps to follow:

  • Step 1: Wash your hair. Make sure it’s clean and free from styling products.
  • Step 2: Air dry your hair. Don’t use heat styling tools, because they can change your hair's natural pattern.
  • Step 3: Examine your hair. Look closely at the shape of your curls. Are they loose, tight, or somewhere in between?
  • Step 4: Figure out your hair's texture. Is your hair fine, medium, or coarse? Your hair texture also influences your hair type.
  • Step 5: Compare your hair to hair type charts. There are lots of online resources that show hair type charts. This will help you visualize different patterns.

Remember that hair type differs throughout your head. It's perfectly normal to have a combination of hair types. But understanding your dominant hair type will give you a good starting point for your hair care routine.

What are the common challenges faced with African-American hair?

Hair types for African-American hair are 4a, 4b, and 4c. Each of these hair types come with unique challenges because of the tightly coiled structure.

  • Dryness: Natural oils produced by the scalp struggle to travel down the hair shaft. This leads to dryness and brittleness.
  • Shrinkage: The tightly coiled nature of African-American hair causes it to contract significantly when wet, so it appears shorter.
  • Breakage: Dryness and manipulation can lead to increased breakage and split ends.
  • Tangling: Curl patterns easily tangle and mat. It makes detangling a long process.
  • Porosity: High porosity means hair readily absorbs and loses moisture. It makes the hair more prone to dryness and damage.

How can I promote hair growth?

There’s no instant magic formula for rapid hair growth. But there are a few factors that help with healthy hair growth.

  • A healthy scalp creates the perfect environment for hair follicles to thrive. Regular cleansing, gentle exfoliation, and proper hydration are very important.
  • Eating a balanced and nutritious diet rich in vitamins, minerals, and protein supports hair growth. Nutrients like biotin, iron, zinc, and vitamins A, C, and E are beneficial.
  • Keeping your hair hydrated prevents dryness and breakage, which can prevent growth. Deep conditioning and regular moisturizing are key.
  • Handle your hair gently. Avoid styling your hair with heat and harsh chemicals too much. Tight hairstyles also cause stress and damage to the hair and scalp.
  • Protecting your hair from environmental factors and daily manipulation helps maintain length and prevent breakage.
  • Regular trimming and removing split ends also prevents further damage and promotes a healthier appearance.

Hair growth is a gradual process, so focus on overall hair health instead of instant results.

What are some effective ways to prevent split ends?

Split ends happen when the hair's protective cuticle is damaged. It causes the hair strand to divide. It's impossible to completely prevent split ends, but you can minimize how often they show up.

  • Regularly trim or cut your hair to remove split ends before they get worse.
  • Hydrated hair is less prone to breakage. Always deep condition your hair to reduce the risk of split ends.
  • Avoid excessive brushing, pulling, and heat styling. These can damage the hair and cause split ends.
  • Limit the use of chemical treatments. Relaxers and perms can weaken the hair.
  • When using heat styling tools, apply some heat protectant to your hair to lessen the damage.

What are some common myths about African-American hair?

Here are 5 common myths about these hair types and the truth behind them.

Myth #1: Afros are the only style for 4a, 4b, and 4c hair types.

This is not true. There are lots of unique hairstyles that are both beautiful and healthy for hair and scalp. Some hairstyles have been covered in this article, and there are still more. There are two-strand twists, the pineapple, space buns, cornrows, locs, afro puffs, bantu knots, and more. Combining these styles together also lets people create unique hairdos.

Myth #2: Natural black hair doesn't grow.

False! Natural afro-textured grows in different ways, depending on the curl pattern. The tighter the coils, the shorter the hair looks. It can look like your hair isn't growing, but when you stretch out the curls, you can see the actual length. Remember that hair grows roughly 1/2 inch per month.

Myth #3: Black hair is hard to manage.

Not true. Textured hair is only hard to manage if you're treating it like straight hair. Natural black hair is as manageable as any other type of hair if you know what you're doing and if you take care of it correctly. Find hair care with the right ingredients and practice different styling techniques to have an easier time managing 4a, 4b, and 4c hair.

Myth #4: African-American hair types need to be in protective styles.

This myth has been going around for years. And it says that if your ends are in a protected style, the hair will keep growing and waist-length hair will soon be yours. But that's not true at all. Keeping your hair in a protective style for too long causes tangling, knots, breakage, and dryness.

Myth #5: Black hair is expensive to maintain.

False! You don't need an entire shelf full of hair care products to keep your hair healthy and strong. You only need to find the right products that work for you and stick with them. If some items are a little pricey, just set aside a budget.

Final Thoughts

At Africa Imports, we understand the importance of finding the right products for your hair. We offer a range of natural health care and hair care products suitable for all types of African American hair types. Whether you're looking for moisturizing oils, protective pomades, or nourishing shampoos and conditioners, our collection has something for everyone.

If you need any help selecting the right products for your hair, contact us in live chat for fast and easy support.